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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 J. G. JARVIS.

COLLAR 0R GUFP.

No. 343,903. Patenteuune 13, 1333.

WZ v a N. PETERS, Pholufmnogmpher. wasmnglon, D,

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2. J G. J ARVIS.

COLLAR OR GUFI'.

l Patented June 15, 1886. WJ ,651

N. PETRS. Phmmnhugm'pher. washingm D. c.

(No Model.) u 3 sheets-sheet s.

` J. G. J ARVIS.

COLLAR 0R GUFI.

No. 343,903. Patented June 15, 1886.

N. PETERS. PbntvLilhngmphqr. Wnshingmn, D. C.

NITnD STATES PATENT Ormea..

JOHN G. JARVIS, OF ADAMS, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE AMERICANZYLONITE COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

COLLAR OR CUFF.1

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 343,903, dated June l5,1886.v

Application filed December 14, 1F85. Serial No. 185,630. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.'

Beit known that I, JOHN G. JARVIS, a citi- Zen of the United States,residing at Adams, in the county of Berkshire and State ofMassachusetts, have invented new and useful Improvements in Collars andCuffs, of which the following is a specication.

In collars and cuffs made Wholly or in part of a pyroxyline compound 1tis usual to stamp or cut out the button-holes after the articleshavebeen formed from sheets ofthe compound. According to such methodconsiderable difficulty is experienced in buttoning and unbuttoning thearticles,owing to the stiffness of the pyroxyline material, whichfrequently results in the edges of the button-hole being cracked orruptured, which is more noticeable in cold temperatures, and, besides,the body of the material about the button-hole will be :rumpled, broken,or bent by the force necessarily employed to button and unbutton thearticle, thereby causing it to present an undesirable and unsightlyappearance and destroying its usefulness. Another objectionable featurein such class of collars and cuffs is the noise or rattle occasioned atthe button-hole by the contact of the sleeve-button with the hardpyroxyline material.

To preserve the neat and smooth appearance of pyroxyline collars andcuffs, provide them with iiexible and inelastic button-holes, which canbe easily, rapidly, and conveniently buttoned and unbuttoned, and toavoid the aforesaid noise or rattle are the objects of my invention,which I accomplish by providing a pyroxyline collar or cuff with anopening larger than the button-hole desired,and uniting to the articleabout such opening a piece or pieces of textile material containing thebutton-hole proper, which latter is located within the aforesaidopening, and is isolated or separated from the edges thereof by aflexible body of textile material, thereby placing in the opening of thestiff pyroxyline collar or cuff a flexible fabric containing the buttonhole, so that such flexible fabric only is manipulated by the fingers inbuttoning and unbuttoning the ar ticle,whereby all liability ofsplitting, cracking, breaking, or rupturing the pyroxyline material isavoided.

The invention also consists in a pyroxyline water-proof collar o1' cuffhaving an opening larger than the button-hole desired and provided witha buttonhole composed as here shown of two pieces of textile fabricunited at the edges of the button-hole only and united to the oppositesides of the sheet comprising the article, such textile fabric extendinginwardly into the opening in the collar or cuff,

so that the button-hole proper is located en- (30 tirely Within the saidopening, andl is isolated or separated from the edges thereof toconstitute a flexible button-hole,thereby permitting a pyroxyline collaror cuff to be buttoned and unbuttoned with easev and convenience andwithout liability of breaking or cracking the pyroxyline material.

The invention also consists in a pyroxyline water-proof collar or cuff'having an attached flexible button-hole composed of textile fabriccoated or impregnated with a solution of collodion to render suchbutton-hole also waterproof.

The invention also comprises other features which will be hereinafterdescribed and claimed.

The invention is illustrated by the acoo1npanying drawings, in whichFigure l is an inside plan view of a pyroxyline collar provided Y withmy improvedllexible button-hole, Fig.

l, a plan view of one end of a collar, showing the enlarged openingtherein; Fig. 2, a sectional view on the line a b, Fig. l; Fig. 3, aninside plan View of a cuff provided with my invention; Fig. 4, atransverse sectional view on the line c d, Fig. 3; Fig. 5, aninside planview of a cuff, showing a modication of the invention;Fig.6,asectionalview on the line ef ofFig. 5; Fig.7,a plan view ofacuff, showing another modication; Fig. 8, a sectional view on pieces oftextile fabric prior to their being connected at the buttonhole, andFig. 12 a detached sectional view of a modification.

In order to enable those skilled in the art to make and use myinvention, I will now describe the same in detail, reference being firstroo made to Figs. l and 2 of the drawings, where the numeral 1 indicatesa collar, which may be either a standing or turndown one, having at eachplace where a button-hole is to be provided an opening, 2, Fig. la, of asize considerably larger than the button-hole. The button-hole 3 isformed in two pieces of textile fabric united by stitching or otherwiseonly at the edges of such hole 3, leaving the remain ing parts 4 and 5,Figs.`9, 10, and l1, of the fabric free and disconnected. One of theseparts, 4, is passed through the enlarged opening 2, and then the twoparts are cemented .to ,the pyroxyline body of the article around thesaid enlarged opening,'this cementing being accomplished in the presenceof a solvent, such as alcohol, which will soften the pyroxyline materialand cause it to become sticky; but this union of the parts can beeffected by high heat and considerable pressure without the presence ofa solvent. is isolated or separated from the edges of the y opening 2 bythe intervening body 6 of textile'fabric in such manner that thebutton-hole and a surrounding part of the fabric containing the same arelocated entirely within the opening 2, thus providing a perfectlyflexible and inelastic button-hole, so that such flexible fabric only ismanipulated by the fingers in buttoning and unbuttoning the article. Thecollar` or cuff can by this means bc buttoned and unbuttoned with easeand convenience without liability of cracking, splitting, or otherwisebreaking the edges of the opening 2 in the stiff pyroxyline materialcomprising the article, and without danger of rumpling or breaking thebody of the material about the button-hole.

In order to render the textile fabric water.- proof, I saturate or coatit on one or both surfaces with a solution of collodion, sothat it maybe cleansed when` the collar or cuff isv wiped off with a damp sponge orcloth, as is ordinarily practiced by those Wearing this class of goods.I also for the same reason prefer to stitch the button-hole 3 by meansof thread coated or saturated with a solution of collodion. Thecollodion can be applied either before or after the textile fabriccomprising the button-hole proper isceinented in place.

In Fig. 3 I show a cuff, 7, having buttonholes made in the same manner,such cuff being strengthened at the ends, as usual, by an attachedstrip, 8, of zylonite or other pyroxyline material.

In Figs. 5 and 6 I show a cuff, 7, of the same construction as thatillustrated by Figs. 3 and 4, except that the textile fabric comprisingthe button-hole proper is united in place between the body of thearticle and the strengthening-strip 8.

In Figs. 7 and 8 I show a cuff in which the button-hole proper is in asheet of textile fabric united between two sheets of z ylonite or otherpyroxyline material.

In all the forms described there are features common to each, in thatthe collar or cuff is provided with an oblong or other shaped openrIhebutton-hole 3 ing, 2, of a size considerably larger than the button-hole3. The button-hole is formed in a piece or pieces of textile fabric, andan extended flexible body, 6, isolates or separates the button-hole 3from the edges of the opening 2 in the pyroxyline body comprising thecollar or cuff. The collar or cuff may be made wholly or partly ofzylonite or other pyroxyline compounds as ordinarily practiced, exceptas to the flexible button-holes, which constitute my invention.

I would here state that, except as to the size of the button-hole properand its flexible `isolation from the edge of the enlarged opening in thecollar or. cuff, the parts are magnified in some parts of the drawingsto more' clearly illustrate the invention.

, Instead of employing two layers, 4 and 5, one layer, 4 or 5, Fig. l1,of the text-ile fabric may be cemented about the enlarged buttonhole inthe collar or cuff, as in Fig. l2. This single layer may be attached tothe inside or the outside ofthe article, or it may be inserted betweenthe strip 8, Figs. 3.and 4, and the body of the article. Where a singlelayer of textile fabric is used, as in Fig. l2, it must be ofsuficientthickness to provide the requisite strength.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is l. A zylonite orpyroxyline collar or`cuff having an enlarged opening and an attachedpiece or pieces of textile fabric connected thereto, and provided with abutton-hole and extending into the opening, said button-hole beingisolated fromthe edge of the enlarged opening by a surrounding exiblebody of the textile fabric, substantially as described.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a zylonite or other pyroxylinecollar or cuff comprising sheets of the material, and. having a flexiblepiece or pieces of textile fabric cemented between such sheets andcontaining a button-hole, which is isolated from the edges of anenlarged openingin the article, substantially as described.

3. A zylonite or other pyroxyline collar or cuff having an enlargedopening and a button-hole formed of two pieces of flexible textilefabric united at the button-hole and cemented to the body of thearticle, with the button-hole isolated from the edges of the enlargedopening by intervening thicknesses of the textile fabric, substantiallyas described.

4. A zylonite or other pyroxyline collar or cuffhaving an attached pieceor pieces of flexible textile fabric containing a button-hole and coatedor impregnated with collodion, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have affixed my sig-y nature in presence of twoWitnesses.

J. G. JARVIS.

Witnesses:

ELMER E. LEONARD, 0. A. WILBUR.

IOC

IOS

